The Hakodate Experience

INTRODUCTION

What draws people to Hakodate...

Having lived here for several years, I've come to consider Hakodate my home in Japan. Unfortunately, I would be hard-pressed to find another non-Japanese person outside of Hokkaido or Aomori who has heard of it. I seek to remedy this situation. I rarely see tourists in Hakodate, but few places in Japan are more deserving of a visit.

I recall that after I'd lived here for about two years I saw this guide book that said a traveler needn't spend more than an afternoon here... this after I'd two years of my life here! I found the notion offensive, but realized that only a foreigner who had lived here could adequately explain Hakodate's charm to other foreigners.

Many other non-Japanese have made their homes here (although I often go days without seeing one)... maybe the rest of this book will shed light on why.

In addition, the process of writing this book has been a good way for me to learn more about my adopted home. In addition to drawing more western tourists, hopefully it will save other foreigners who move here a bit of time and trouble getting settled.

The Hakodate Experience

This is a little background about me for the reader... In the year 2000, while still in college, I scraped together some cash and bought round trip tickets to Tokyo with the intention of flexing my newfound Japanese skills a little bit. At the time I only had two years of college study under my belt, and it turned out that what I considered skills could barely order up an ice cream cone. I had a lot of fun during my two and a half weeks in Tokyo, and I'm not too ashamed to say that I partied like a rock star. However, it was August, and it was humidity like no native Seattleite should have to endure.

I turned my eye towards the great north. When I started looking for a job in Japan upon graduating from college, I made sure that it was in Hokkaido, and I was eventually lured to Hakodate. At that time, I, like most people in the states, had never heard of Hakodate, so I was a little nervous about coming to live here. My concerns were almost immediately alleviated by the easy-going atmosphere and the friendly people.

GEOGRAPHY

General

Hakodate is currently the third largest city in Hokkaido after Sapporo and Asahikawa, with a population just under 300,000. As the population of Japan ages, and as the youth flee to the largest cities, the population in small and medium size cities shrink, and Hakodate is no exception.

Mount Hakodate (函館山)

Mount Hakodate (Hakodate-yama), a lumpy forested 334 meter mountain shaped like a kneeling cow (hence its nickname "GaGyuZan" meaning Cow's Back Mountain), tips a small peninsula that fans out from the mountain's slopes. Due to volcanice activity the mountain formed some one or two million years ago as an island, and in the meantime a build up of sand connected it to mainland hokkaido. Hakodate Bay is off to the left, while the Tsugaru Strait spans the distance to the right. The ropeway to the summit is the easiest way to the summit, but there is also a road that is open during the summer months. Buses or taxis to the top are also available. The motivated can also hike it. Coming down the mountain very late one night, I ran into a friendly old woman who looks likes she hikes the mountain every morning. What's your excuse? She was like 80, yo.

The Tsugaru Strait (津軽海峡)

The straight separating Hokkaido and Honshu that flows between the the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Japan. It is 110 kilometers long and 18 kilometers wide at its narrowest point. This side of Hakodate consists consists mostly of sandy beaches separated from homes, restaurants, and hotels by a cement retaining wall. On a clear day one can see all the way to Honshu, and at night during the fishing season the lights from the squid boats look like diamonds floating on the sea.

Hakodate Bay (函館湾)

This side of hakodate is very industrial (talk more about the natural geography here and descibe The Bay Area later)

TachiMachi (立待岬)

A cape jutting out from Hakodate-yama into the Tsugaru Strait, Cape Tachimachi offers jagged rocks and cliffs overlooking both the strait and the Yunokawa side of the city. Originally name **** by the Ainu, the name has changed but retains its original meaning, to stand and wait, presumably for fish.

Goryokaku (五稜郭)

Recall the guide book that offended me so in the Introduction? I believe that that same guidebook aso stated that the remains of the fort at Goryokaku were only mildly interesting, which is only true if one ignores the history, how the moat freezes in the winter, the cherry trees that turn the entire fort pink during Golden Week, the turtles, birds, koi, and row boats that crowd the moat in the summer, the new tower, dogs running down frisbees, and the fact that it was the first western style fort built in Japan.

Seasons (季節)

• Winter (Cold, famous in Hokkaido for not having so much snow, but plenty cold. I almost froze to death one time because I got a little tipsy and left a friend's house without my jacket. There wasn't a taxi in sight...)
• Spring (Nice after four months of hibernation, except all the dog sh1t people left to get covered with snow suddenly reappears as the snow melts, leaving the sidewalks a snarled doo doo mine field.
• Summer (Short but sweet, not so humid, Yunokawa beach for swimming in a netted area with dirty water)
• Fall (Changing of Leaves)

Parks (公園)

• Hakodate Park: Located on the slopes of Hakodate-yama, This is also a nice place to spend a few hours on a nice day, and is also known for its cherry blossoms, which bloom a few days later than Goryokaku's, due to the shadow of the mountain. There is a small zoo, a fountain, a miniture amusement park for children, and a museum.
• Goryokaku Park: To defend against attacks from the north, Fort Goryokaku was built by the Tokugawa shogunate in 1866 in a western style, its five pointed star shape was designed to maximize crossfire on the enemy and minimize blind spots. Shogunate loyalists soon occupied the fort and declared Hokkaido as The Republic of Ezo. The government forces eventually broke through and the secessionists surrendered the fort in 1869. It is now a public park with a museum and nice open spaces. Due to its 1600 cherry trees that bloom simultaneously it is an extremely popular spot for Hanami (Cherry Blossom Viewing). The park also contains a annex to the city museum, and is overlooked by the recently completed Goryokaku Tower, which replaced an older shorter version.
• Chiyogadai Park: This park has the most to offer for the athletic type. In addition to a baseball stadium and an olympic size swimming pool, it has a track, tennis courts, and a community center with a gym.
• Akagawa Dam: When I went there, there was no water flowing, but it was a nice park to spend the day in. Lots of kids. And as I recall, lots of insects.

Transportation

• Trains: To Sapporo, 3 and 1/2 hours. To Tokyo, get some sleep. The tunnel is pretty crazy. Longest underwater tunnel in the world I hear, even longer than the chunnel?
• Streetcar: nice as a tourist attraction, tourists always seem to be lining the street taking pictures of it. also handy for commuting, if you live along the line. it gets crowded.
• Buses: convenient if you can read Japanese. as far as I know, no english langauge information is available. as first i got frustrated by the fact that buses with the same route number take different routes, although, rest assured, they always end up going to the destination listed on the sign. for me, until my Japanese improved, it was a trial and error experience. good luck! remember, like the streetcar, grab a ticket when you get on. That will determine your fare.
• Taxi: the drop is cheap, only like 530 yen. also, there's not many place in Hakodate proper that you can't get to for under 2500.
• Bicycle: most of Hakodate is not so hilly. many people commute to and from school or work by bicycle. If you choose to ride in the winter, you do so at your own risk. I took a few spills on black ice before I stopped riding in the winter. Luckily, the ice is so slick, that instead of crushing your head you just slide with your bike 20 feet into the path of oncoming cars. Wait, is that lucky? The pre-spring snow melt is also to be avoided... unless you are wearing water tight scuba gear or something.

Maps (地図)

• MotoMachi (元町)
• Goryokaku (五稜郭)
• Daimon (大門)
• Greater-Hakodate (函館市)
• Minami-Hokkaido (南北海道)
• Hokkaido (北海道)
• Japan (日本)
• BONUS: Hakodate-Yama hiking map (函館山のハイキング)

HISTORY (歴史)

The Ainu (アイヌ)

No history of Hokkaido would be complete without at least mentioning the indigenous Ainu, the original inhabitants of Hokkaido and the northern islands (be more specific). The Ainu names for places in Hakodate live on at TachiMachi-Misaki, Kameda-Gawa, Same-Gawa (all Japanese names that reflect either the meaning or pronunciation of their former Ainu names). Unfortunately, these days, true Ainu culture is next to impossible to experience. For those curious about the Ainu, I recommend the following museums and literature...

The Origin of the Town Name (市名の来由)

Masamichi Kono, who "settled" the Tsugaru Strait, built a house (some call it a palace) near the base of the mountain shaped like a box here in 1454. This was the origin of the town's name.

Matsumae (松前)

Matsumae, the sight of the only castle in Hokkaido, was the first outpost for the military government in the Edo era. It is now known for a well preserved Edo era town and is a common destination for hanami.

Takadaya Kahei (高田屋嘉兵)

Takadaya Kahei arrived in Hakodate in 1796 and based his shipping and fishing businesses out of the town. He made a fortune, but is said to have been generous, and is often credited with developing Hakodate's shipping and fishing industries. It is said he turned Hakodate from a cold desolate outpost to a prosperous city. He was one of Japan's best known businessmen at that time. He was actually captured by Russia, with whom Japan was at war with, in 1812, but was able to secure his release. It is also said that he was quite the sake connoisseur. He returned to his birthplace, Awaji Island, at the age of 50 but apparently reminisced often of the Hakodate of his youth. A large statue of him stands visible from the streetcar line.

Commodore Perry (ペリー)

In 1854 Commodore Perry's black ships opened a closed Japan to the world. He visited Hakodate to inspect it's potential as a port the same year. It is said that the ships' unexpected arrival cause quite a panic, and women and children were made to hide.

The Opening of the Port to International Trade

Five years later, Hakodate was one of just three Japanese port cities opened to international trade, along with Nagasaki and Yokohama. This opened the city to foreign culture. What remains today of this era is clustered around Mount Hakodate, in the form of abandoned or converted consulates, churches, and a uniquely Japanese and western mix of architecture.

The Hakodate War (箱館戦争)

The Hakodate War was where those opposed to the inevitablity of the Meiji Restoration made their last stand. They took refuge in the western style fort built just a few years earlier, but could not withstand the onslaught of the imperial army. The end of the Hakodate War marked the definitive end of the military government and the end of the battles that returned the Emperor to political prominence.

Ishikawa Takuboku (石川啄木)

Ishikawa Takuboku is well known as a poet, of both the tanka and modern free styles. He lived a short but interesting life, and was quite the romantic. Born in 1886, he died of tuberculosis in 1912. His major works were his tanka poems and his diaries. "A Handful of Sand" was published in 1910, and "Sad Toys" was published after his death in 1912. A statue of Takuboku sits in a reflective pose off of Asaribi-Dori. Look closely at the rocks set into the cement around the statue and you will see the names of countless couples who have added testaments to their own eternal love to the area around the monument. Its kind of cute, actually.

Early 20th Century

The Big Hakodate Fire (函館大火) in Showa 9.

Hakodate, along with Sapporo (札幌), Asahikawa (旭川), Kushiro (釧路), Otaru (小樽), and Muroran (室蘭), were awarded city status in 1922.

By the 1930's Hakodate had become the largest city north of Tokyo.

World War II comes to Hakodate

Luckily the city was for the most part spared by bombing during World War II, but not entirely. On July 14th and 15th, in 1945, Allied aircraft clouded the skies above the the western side of Hakodate-yama. 400 homes were destroyed, and an Aomori-Hakodate ferry was attacked, leading to the deaths of over 400 passengers. Southern Hokkaido was also home to a bunch of prison camps during the war, but you won't see those mentioned anywhere or by anybody.

ARCHITECTURE

Before the property bubble burst in the late 80's and early 90's, many old building near the mountain were torn down and replaced by multistory apartment and condominium buildings, diminishing Mount Hakodate's allure for many older Hakodate residents. They of course blame investors from Honshu, the main island.

What has been saved from the evil capital investment firms is however worthy of a little civic pride. Hakodate boasts some very unique architecture, and neighborhoods that defy labels, due to the sudden mixing of cultures that took place after the opening of the port.

Churches

• Russian Orthodox Church
• Motomachi Roman Catholic Church: The church was founded by a French missionary and after being destroyed numerous times by fires it was recontructed as is in 1924. Featuring Gothic architecture, it houses the only altar in Japan presented by the Pope himself.
• Episcopal Church
• St. John's Church (same as one of the above?): Built by a missionary named Denning in 1874, it was built in the shape of a cross.

Government Buildings

• Former Hakodate Ward Public Hall: This building was designed by a famous Japanese architect and built in 1913. A lot of money was spent on building it and it is considered a cultural asset.
• Former Branch of the Hokkaido Government
• Former British Consulate: Built in 1913, it now functions as a museum dedicated to the opening of the port. Apparently wedding ceremonies are also held there.
• Former American Consulate (?) (now Yayoi Elementary School)

Businesses

• Former Bank (Now Hotel New Hakodate)

Also of Interest

• The Chinese Memorial Hall: Chinese merchants living in Hakodate imported carpenters, sculptors, and other craftsmen to rebuild their hall after it was burned to the ground in the Great Hakodate Fire of 1907. A fine example of Ch'ing dynasty era architecture, it is a brick building with a laquered and golden interior. Amid all the western and Japanese buildings, it is a true treasure. Rumor has it the entire building was built for 20,000 yen, less than $200. But it certainly was not built on a budget.
• KanaMori Warehouses: Another example of Hakodate's interesting combination of old and new. The KaneMori Warehouses are six early 20th century red brick warehouses that have found a new use as something like a mall or plaza containing touristy shops, restaurants, and even a museum and a hall generally used for music concerts.

For those more traditionally inclined, there are plenty of shrines and temples to visit as well.

Shrines (神社)

• Yamanoue Daijingu reputedly founded by a trainee monk named Fujibo during the Ouen Era (応安年間).

Temples (寺)

• *******

HAKODATE: NOW AND FUTURE

Building Activity in Recent Years

• Train Station (The one it replaced had character, and was the first thing I saw when I came to hakodate a long time ago. On some level, I miss it, but the new station is definitely an improvement in many other ways.)
• Airport (I'm glad they redid this one, the old one reeked of 1970s)
• Library (Mad modern... clean, well organize, a wealth of services, and unlike everywhere else in Japan, relatively quiet.)
• Tower (They built a new tower, probably because the old tower could barely be called a tower. It was hard to believe that they charged people money to go up the old one, and harder to believe that people actually payed for it.)

Neighborhoods
(Send Survey to ChoKais)

• The Bay Area: Touristy, but pleasant. The place really transforms at night, with many buildings lit up year round.
• Motomachi and Suehiro Neighborhoods: This is where the cobblestone streets, the churches, the western buildings, and the slopes all come together to offer wonderful walks and stunning views.
• Toyokawa (豊川町): My home in Hakodate!
• Chiyogadai (千代台町): My first home in Hakodate!
• Matsukage (松陰町): My second home in Hakodate!
• Showa (昭和): My third home in Hakodate!

What Does the Future Hold for Hakodate?

** Primarily interview-based AS ORE-SAMA KNOWS NOTHING but laces it with own opinion** Only publish opinions you agree with. This is not an opportunity for people to pretend that "Hakodate will be an International City with a lot of High Tech and THE proclamation for the prohibition of nukes and all that sh1t" As the population decreases and ages. The center of Hakodate has for all practical purposes shifted from the mountain to the Goryokaku area, perhaps now it has shifted out even to Hondori. This should allow many of the historical building to be preserved. Which IS cool.

SIGHTSEEING (観光)

Japan's Best Night View

The view from the summit of Mount Hakodate, overlooking the city on a clear night, is considered the finest night view in Japan, and by many Japanese, in the world. In fact it is called "The Million Dollar Night View" in Japanese (they apparently have not been tracking inflation). The uniqueness of this view is how the mountain sits on the end of a peninsula.

AsaIchi (朝市)

The AsaIchi, literally "Morning Market", is where the daily catch get distributed in the wee hours of the morning. There are roughly 400 shops and vendors in the area. Be there by six in the morning at the latest if you want to catch all the real action, I think it generally starts around five, though. If you miss the rush in the morning, there's plenty of good fresh seafood to order up at the little restaurants surrounding it. Go for the live squid. No it is not still alive, you won't have to fight with it to get it in your mouth, but it was alive until right before they served it to you, so its severed tentacles will all still be moving, rithing around on your plate. Bon appetit! Nothing quite like putting moving squid arms (legs?) in your mouth. I also recommend the scallops, sea urchin, and the salmon-roe... all fresh as can be. Fruits, vegetables, and other goods are also available.

Many other markets are scattered throughout Hakodate, if that is what you enjoy, also check the Jiyuu Ichiba (Free Market) near the Central post office just off of the streetcar line. It burned down in 1995 but has made an incredible comeback.

The Fishing Lights

Many of the fishing boats that troll the Tsugaru Strait for their nightly catch are equipped with several rows of intensely bright lights. I assume the squid must be attracted to them or something, but I kid you not, these things are blindingm I don't know how the men work under them. The boats go out around dusk and space out pretty evenly. These mesmerizing lights, visible from the aptly named AsaribiDori (the fishing lights road) and shining out of the blackness of the sea like stars fallen to Earth, are one of the wonders of Hakodate.

Graveyard for Foreigners (外人墓地)

The first American to be buried in Japan was a mariner who died on one of Commodore Perry's ships while Hakodate bound. The graveyard is also the final resting place of many other westerners who spent their final days in Hakodate after the opening of the port of Hakodate.

Hachiman-zaka Slope (八幡坂)

There are many roads heading straight up the mountain, and each one offers a different view of the bay, but this one, with a tiled road, is always crowded near the top with people taking pictures. Hiking to the top of it from the Street Car line takes only a couple of minutes.

Festivals & Firework Displays (祭や花火大会)

• Port Festival (Minato Matsuri) Lasts a couple of days. It seems like half the town either participates or watches.
• Christmas Fantasy (December)
• Winter Festival (February)
• The Hakodate Goryokaku Festival (May)

The Historical Red Brick Warehouses (赤レンガ)

This is a group well preserved warehouses made from red brick during the Meiji era. They have been converted for use as a beer hall, a concert hall, shopping, and are central to the Bay Area, one of the must see parts of Hakodate for tourists.

RECOMMENDATIONS (おすすめ)

Hotels (ホテル)

• Prince Hotel
• Hotel New Hakodate:with prices ranging from 6000 to 11000 will put you in a historic western style building that used to be a bank in the early 1900s. Excellent bar and restauant offering Irish food on the first floor, and friendly staff.
• Hokkei Club: Puts you in the heart of the Hon-chou entertainment district. Has
• Tetora & Tetora Annex: For the budget traveler.

Onsen (温泉)

• Yunokawa
• My Friggin Bath Tub

Restaurants (レストラン)

• Kantarou (函太郎)　(The best KaitenZushi I've ever eaten. The location on Asaribi-doori has an incredible view of the Tsugaru Stait as well.)
• Lucky Pierrot (Now this is an experience. Apparently owned by a Chinese resident of Hakodate, this is a chain of hamburger shops throughout the Hakodate area, each with its own theme... one decorated with Middle English and angels and cupids, another with movie posters, and yet another with more Santas then you could possibly count (all year long!). They offer a crazy menu, with everything from curry to spaghetti to chinese chicken to whale burgers.
• Gatten (月天)　(As far as Izakayas go, classy. The menu doesn't change often but what is on the menu is consistently delicious.)
• TaMoto (田本)　(Jujigai... The master knows his whiskeys, his food offerings are excellent. Try the steamed peanuts and the Japanese style pizza.)
• Ebisu (えびす)(Jujigai... The master is a friendly guy, popular with the locals, who speaks some English.)
• GoToKen (五島軒) (Well known, fine dining, past its peak according to some, but worth a visit. Opened in 1879. The Curry is delicious and widely available at shops throughout Japan. They are well-known for their duck curry.
• California Baby (I generally don't go there anymore, but as it is often mentioned in many guide books I thought I'd weigh in. The staff is almost always rude. The food isn't great but it isn't bad either, and the portions are good. The atmosphere is hard to describe, but picture a Japanese person's stereotype of a bar in California and you'll get the picture. If you're a foreigner they will give you the English menu, assuming you can't read the Japanese menu, which is a presumptive extension of the rudeness of the staff in my opinion. If you can read Japanese, ask for the Japanese menu because the English one doesn't have everything on it.)

Bars (バー)

• Slow Life (Run by my main man Tak. He was one of the first people I met when I came to Hakodate
• BarBigJob (This is where the gaijins have been gathering in recent years... the master is called "Boss". Rumor has it he's an ex-boxer, and a damn good one. I can vouch for the fact that people don't f*ck with his family either, so be respectful, but enjoy yourself.)
• Eiley's (Owned by the Mr. Yamashita aka The Captain... the first Irish pub)
• Yamashita's (山下)　(The first place to get a decent Guiness)
• Bagus (Surfer bar... decent menu, open late)
• Jolly Jellyfish (Obnoxious pink building with a second floor that isn't barely tall enough to stand on, the food is good, even if the broken English speaking master's service leaves a little something to be desired. He's real friendly, not ypical Japanese, he'll chat you up.)
• OwnGoal (Cheap drinks, owner's cool, enjoy karaoke and mah-jong.)

Famous Products (名物や名品)

Hakodate is especially famous throughout Japan for its fresh and delicious seafood.

• Squid (いか・イカ・烏賊)(and all products squid, including the Ika Jokki, an cup actually made of dried squid. quite peculiar, but popular.)
• Hakodate Shio Ramen (Ramen noodles with a salt based soup. Squid is place on top of the ramen in place of the typical pork cutlet.)
• Shiroi Koibito (白い恋人)　(Hokkaido)
• Trappiste Cookies and Butter
• Shiokara (塩辛): Shiokara is salted squid guts.

Hiking (ハイキング)

For the time being, I'll limit this to hiking Mount Hakodate, although there is plenty of hiking to be found in the areas surrounding the city. There are several trail heads, the two most popular being one located behind Shiomi Junior High School, not too far from the rope-way boarding area. The other goes straight up from Cape TachiMachi.

CONSIDERING A LIFE IN HAKODATE?

The following information should come in very handy for foreigners who are living or are going to be living in Hakodate.

Government

• Government Offices and Function: This is not a federal system. It seems everything in Japan is centralized, but on some levels this seems to be changing, with the realization that some things can be handled much more efficiently at the local level.
• City Hall (市役所):
• Police (警察): OK, the Police Boxes (交番) are cute. Just don't expect them to do anything about the way everybody and there mama park on the street blocking traffic, and don't expect them to do anything about the BoSoZoku (暴走族) who are basically little pricks on mini-bikes who tear around making noise and screwing up my sleep. The kids don't scare me in the least, although the guys in the Majestas that they are trying to impress kind of do. I have actually seen these kids CIRCLING a patrol car, and remember laughing out loud when I imagined what would happen to somebody if they did that to a cop back home... think helicopters and batons.

Bureaucracy

• Foreigner Registration (外国人登録): Every foreigner who lives in Japan must register with the government, not unlike the green card system in the United States. There is a desk for accomplishing this at City Hall. I personally have taught English to several people at City Hall, and it is a mystery to me why the one place in City Hall where they might choose to put English speakers has none. They are friendly though, and helpful. Expect them to make mistakes though. I've never been able to get anything done without being called back for a piece of paperwork they missed, or some additional bit of information they need. Welcome to the bureacracy in Japan!
• Taxes: Aside from the 5% consumption tax applied to everything there are plenty of other taxes that you will be paying. Taxes in Japan leap from the shadows like ninjas.
• Driver's License: If you are an Australian or a Brit, congratulations! Getting a license here is as easy as hitting the side of a big red barn with whatever the hell you call those balls used in cricket. If youdo some are an American then they will crucify you and then do some Shaka Zulu sh1t. After failing the first test (EVERYBODY fails the first test, this way they can double their revenue, you think I'm joking haha... I'm not.) and retaking it they may pass you and allow you to get a Japanese license. Lots of guys think they can play it smart and just drive on their International License that they got a AAA for ten bucks for years on end. You cannot. You will not be insured and will be risking deportation if you drive on an international driver license after you get your gaijin card.
• Registering your car: Loads of fun! Get ready to do tons of paperwork in Japanese! I'd explain it to you here but it made my head spin the first time. What I do remember being particularly annoying (although there is a valid logic to it) is providing proof that you have a parking space. My parking space is in a lot a block or two from where I live, so this requires detailed maps showing the space and the route I travel to get to my car.

Schools and Education (教育)

• Universities
  • The University of Hakodate, better know as KanDai, offers many business related programs.
  • Hokkaido University of Education's Hakodate Branch, better known as KyouIkuDai, turns out, as far as I can tell, most of Hakodate teachers in the public education system. The admission standards are quite high, and graduates are well-regarded.
  • Future University, better known as Mirai, is a relative newcomer, having just opened its doors in 2000. It does however offer a core of tech related programs, such as Information Science and Media Architecture, that are a welcome addition to higher level learning in Hakodate.
• High Schools
  • Chubu
  • Higashi
  • ShiraYuri
  • Iai
  • LaSalle
• Junior High and Elementary Schools
  • Ishizaki
  • Tanshin
  • Yayoi
• Kindergartens and Pre-Schools
  • ....

Public Services

• Postal Service
• Phone: NTT for a home line. This can be economical so many foreigners, especially those who don't plan to be here for a long time, simply get a cell phone which can be economical if you don't make many outgoing calls.
• Electricity: Electricity can be expensive here.
• Water and Sewage: These are billed together by the local SuiDouKyoku.
• Garbage: You have to sort you garbage in Hakodate into burnable (pink bags) and non-burnable (green bags). The bags come in 10, 20, 30, and 40 liter sizes and are available at most convenience, food, and drug stores.
• Recycling: You get to use the cheap clear bags for these, but remember to sort these bags as well. Plastics, newspaper, bottles, cans, etc.... or you can just be a d*ck and throw it all in the pink or green bags, but it'll cost ya.
• Internet: The main options seem to be NTT, YahooBB, or NCV (the local cable company).

Health Care

• Insurance
• Hospitals
• Clinics
• Dental
• Emergency Rooms

Emergencies

• Police: Dial #110... Basically any traffic accidents or crime, you go to the police. Interesting side note: They also serve as a lost and found. I read this in a book somewhere, so upon finding a key one day I poked my head into the nearest police box and said I found this key. Little did I know! Out came the paperwork. I was there for a half hour filling out papers and showing them my ID before they told me, "If nobody comes to collect this key in 6 months, you can have it." Wow, thanks guys, I really need and want this homeless key. This experience taught me a lesson about what to with lost and found stuff... draw your own conclusion.
• Fire: Dial #119... If you don't speak good Japanese it's probably a good idea to write down your address in romaji, with decent instructions on how to find you (since even Japanese people can't find a building in Japan by the address alone, a little clarification always seems necessary).
• Earthquakes: Well, first of all, think ahead. I feel an earthquake, I joke you not, almost everyday. Of course, I live on the 6th floor, and my building sways. Anyways, they are common. I've only been through one that made my heart beat even a little faster (and that because it interrupted my beauty sleep), so just be prepared. A bad one could happen at any time, this is Japan. Say cool, turn off your gas, and wait it out. I wonder also if a tsunami wouldn't level most of Hakodate. I imagine that landslides are also possible, depending on where you live, but don't seem to be too common in this area.

Other

• Athletic Clubs
• Video Stores
• Super Markets
• Drug Stores
• Clothing
• Shoe Stores
• English Newspapers

CULTURE (文化)

Music

• Glay: Formed in 1988, Glay went on to be nationwide a hugely popular rock band, I cannot overestimate their impact on pop music in Japan. Its members were all either born or raised in Hakodate. Their name is a deliberate mispelling of the word "gray", some say because they were inspired by The Beatles (who also deliberately mispelled their name). They have innovative lyrics and a diverse musical style.
• Yuki:
• Kitajima Saburo:
• HipHop: Hakodate boasts a vibrant underground HipHop scene.
  • MC Prozacc:
  • MC DT:
  • DJ Tak:
  • DJ Fumitarou:

High Culture

• Calligaphy
• Ikebana
• Anything distinctly Japanese

Low Culture

• Actors
• Comedians

Sports

• Kendo
• Judo
• Sumo
• Baseball
• Basketball
• Rugby

SOUTHERN HOKKAIDO (Minami Hokkaido) (南北海道)

• Esashi - A big dock, huge boat that doesn't go anywhere.
• Esan - Resting below a volcano. Esan is best known for its yearly Azalea festival. Hike up the mountain and look down on a sea of pink.
• Shiriuchi - Birthplace of Kitajima Saburo a scary Enka singer renowned for his gangster ties, afro hair, and humongous nostrils. He is the Japanese Frank Sinatra.
• Matsumae - home to the only castle in Hokkaido, MatsuMae-Jo. Known for Hanami that supposedly happens a few days before Goryokaku's, if you're in a hurry. With the castle as a background, it makes for a nice view. Historical Matsumae remains to some degree as a tourist attraction.
• Kamiiso - The fastest growing part of Hakodate. Lots of available housing, young people can't afford buy homes in Hakodate proper.
• Nanae - Farms as far as the eye can see.
• Minami-Kayabe
• Mori - On the slopes of the Komagatake mountain, famous for its IkaMeshi... squid stuffed with rice. They sell it in the train station, so you needn't go far. I checked out the Hanami here once, the park was nice, the vendors were cool. It had a distinctly small town feel to it.
• Onuma - Huge lake formed when flows from a still periodically active volcano... RESEARCH HERE
• Shikabe

DIALECT (方言) (Standard Japanese in parentheses)

• namara shibareru be = It's extremely cold! (totemo samui da)
• gattsuri = very, extremely, with force (totemo, sugoi)
• joppin = lock (kagi)
• kisha = train (densha) densha means streetcar in Hakodate
• nanmo = nothing (nandemo nai)
• menkoi = cute (kawaii)
• kowai = tired (tsukareta)
• beko = cow (ushi)
• mitakunai = ugly (minikui)
• bakuru = trade, exchange (koukan suru)
• kajiru = to bite (kamu)
• azumashii = good feeling, pleasant (kokochi ga yoi)
• dabesa = don't you think, I agree (dayone)
• waya = messy (taihen, mechakucha)

BIBLIOGRAPHY

• Books (Tour, History)
• Newspaper Articles
• Magazines
• Web Sites
  • Area Guide
  • Guide for Daily Living in Hakodate
  • Hakodate Situation (sic)
  • Hakodate History
  • Hokkaido Government Page
  • WikiPedia: Hakodate
  • WikiTravel: Hakodate
  • Hakodate University
  • Future University
  • University of Education
  • Graduate School of Fisheries Science
  • LaSalle
  • National College of Technology
  • Japan-Guide.com: Hakodate
  • Hakodate (some curious facts)
  • ANA SKY WEB: Hakodate
  • hakodate.or.jp
  • Takuboku's History
  • Hokkaido Population Chart
  • Hakodate@Everything2
  • Unbeaten Tracks in Japan by Isabella L. Bird 1878
  • Hokkaido Population Chart
  • Hell at Hakodate, TIME Magazine, April 2, 1934
  • Interview with Mr. William Jones by Haruo Akino
  • Interview with Mr. William Jones by Kohki Watanabe
  • Hakodate Foods World Navi
  • Some guy's travel experience to Hakodate
  • History of Mission in Hokkaido by Fr. Sukegawa
  • History of Consular Activities in Hokkaido - US Consulate, Sapporo
  • Hakodate Area WW2 POW camps
  • Takadaya Kahei *
  • Yamasa.org NICE!!!
  • Some decent info.
  • Infocreate **
  • Translated Account with pics of Perry's visit to Hakodate
  • Glay Wikipedia
  • Takuboku Wikipedia
• Interviews

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Christopher Webb was born in Seattle. He developed a fondness for Japan after deciding on a whim to study the Japanese language while in college. He graduated from the University of Washington in 2001 with a degree in Business Administration and a concentration in Information Systems. He came to live in Hokkaido after realizing that Tokyo is too damn humid and polluted to sustain human life.

The Hakodate Experience ©2006,2007 CS Webb is protected by both United States and Japan copyright law and may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, displayed, published or broadcast without the prior written permission of CS Webb. You may not alter or remove any copyright or other notice from copies of the content. You may use this material for your personal, noncommercial use only.
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